Tuesday, September 25, 2007

The Arch

Yesterday the copper drip edge fabricator returned my call. He drove out to my house and took a look at the installed drip edge. Much to my relief, he agreed that it wasn't exactly as it should be. The edge over the arch needs to be wider and completely cover all of the 1x2" wood trim and the ends of the arch need to have a bit more curve. It's tricky because this is an old house and the overhang was hand made over 80 years ago, so it is nowhere near precise. They are going to make a new arch and reinstall it.

I'm relieved.

On a happy note, last night we had a rain downpour and the nice little diverter edge that they put at the top of the arch, efficiently directed the rain to either side of my front step.


Paul said...

Nice. Hopefully it won't take another month to install, but at least you'll have the current one in place until then.

StuccoHouse said...

Paul - I have a sneaky suspicion the first snow flake will fly before I see the new copper. But, at least it is 100% water (and bat) tight right now. So, I don't need to worry about more rot....and hibernating bats. Both, of which had me very stressed out and caused many a sleepless night. And it does look 1000x better than before....just needs some tweaking.

cristina said...

Fabulous job as usual, SSH. You're putting us all to shame! I am envious of the copper drip edge...

Could you tell me which department one finds borate/boric acid? It's not in pharmacy is it?? The guys at Fleet Farm had no idea what I was talking about (tried both paints and housewares). I'm ready to finally start stripping/painting storm windows- something I promise myself I'll do every spring and never get around to until October. I'm having problems with paint cracking on windows that were stripped and painted only 1-2 years ago. I use BM latex paint with Zinsser primer (H2O oil base). Maybe the primer is the problem??? I picked up some info on painting at the TC Arts and Crafts Show (were you there??). It suggests using BM primer with linseed oil, plus using a moisture meter to ensure wood is <15% moist. Do you use one? If so where did you buy? Again, Fleet Farm didn't have a clue. Also, which brand of heat gun do you prefer? I can't believe how much you accomplish-if I could do half as much I'd be happy. Thanks for your help.

StuccoHouse said...

Cristina - Thanks! I have such a simple little bungalow, it was kind of nice to be able to put something a little showy up - even though it will patina to brown eventually :-)

I have been using a product called Boracare. It's specifically made as a wood preservative/insecticide. I've been using this because I had rot & also had carpenter ants (they are long gone now). I strip the wood, put down Boracare, use LiquidWood and/or WoodEpox (if needed), prime & paint. Probably overkill, but I never want to have to do it again.

I bought the Boracare at a place called Lesco in Edina (952) 942-9282. It's pricey, but one gallon container lasts forever. Here is a link to a good explanation of borates: www.prginc.com/Borates/using-borates.html

I also use Zinsser H2Oil or Cover Stain primer and BM latex exterior. One thing I have learned is that letting the primer dry for a couple of days is a good thing. Also any caulk. Even if it is dry to the touch, it may not be dry enough to pain. If you have new paint cracking, I wonder if maybe the primer was not totally dried. Have you been to Abbott paint over in Highland? They would be a good resource to ask.

I didn't make it over to the A&C Show this year. It's been a couple of years....it was fun to see what everyone had to offer.

My heat gun is a Wagner. I'm kind of attached to it because it has 3 blower settings and a bunch of heat settings. I use a lower heat setting on the lead paint to try to keep fumes to a minimum. I also didin't want to burn down my house as I worked on the exterior.

Lol...and here this week I was thinking what a bum I have been and how short I fell from my goals.

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